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Science
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| Number of pages / Number of words: |
3 / 749 |
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Solving the above equation for a wave speed of 35 miles per hour and a wave height of 70 feet, we find that you will hit the bottom at a whistling 57 miles per hour. Now you just have to pull off the turn, avoid the grinding lip, carve a "cutback" if you can, and hope the wave doesn't "close out" and drag you 300 yards under an avalanche of white-water...
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Archimedes' Principle of Buoyancy is what keeps the board floating and, ultimately, allows the surfer to ride the wave. Archimedes' Principle states that "a body wholly or partially submerged in a fluid is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the displaced fluid" (Tipler 380). It is, therefore, the force of buoyancy that counterbalances the weight of both the surfboard and the surfer and prevents both from sinking...
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