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| Topic: |
Miscellaneous
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| Number of pages / Number of words: |
11 / 2937 |
Essay's paper body
They all have crests, troughs, wave
heights, lengths, and periods. Also, water particles that make up the waves all
move in identical orbital patterns. The orbital pattern is up and forward in
the crest and down and back in the trough. It is only when the wave becomes
unstable that the orbital motion is destroyed...
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The water particles then begin
to move at the same speed as the moving wave form.
Breaking waves release a tremendous amount of stored energy on a beach
face. This energy moves the sand about and changes the configuration of the
bottom. As the bottom configuration is changed by the waves, it changes the
characteristics of incoming waves...
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